FAQ

  • Your pool pump moves water through the filter, heater, and sanitizing system so the pool maintains clear water and good circulation.

    A single-speed pump is the classic version which has only one setting: on. When running, it moves water at full speed the entire time. The upside is they’re simple, reliable, and easy for anyone to understand.  When you flip the switch, it’s working, and when wired into a timer box, it runs automatically.  We set timers to run from 8AM - 8PM on a 12 hour cycle, unless otherwise instructed.  The downside is that they use more electricity than the newer variable-speed pumps.

    A variable-speed pump is a newer design that can adjust the speed at which the pump runs. You can set it to run at a slower speed for everyday filtering, and faster when you need extra flow, like when vacuuming or running a water feature. Because of this flexibility, they tend to be quieter and more energy efficient. However, they come with more buttons, automation/programming options, and a learning curve that some pool owners find too complicated.

    Simply put:

    • Single-speed pumps are straightforward, and dependable.

    • Variable-speed pumps offer more control and energy efficiency, but can feel more difficult to use.

    Both types will keep your pool clean and circulating properly, it just depends on whether you prefer to “set it and forget it” or to have more control and efficiency.

  • A pool pump, like any piece of equipment, lasts longer with the proper care.  To get the most years out of it:

    The pump basket and skimmer basket(s) must remain clean.  When the baskets fill with leaves or debris, the pump has to work harder.  Cleaning them out, minimally once a week, takes stress off the motor.

    Maintain the proper water level.  If the water is too low, the pump pulls in air instead of water. This is called “running dry,” and it’s one of the fastest ways to burn out a pump. Always keep the water halfway up the skimmer opening.

    The pump lid and gaskets must have an air-tight seal.  The clear lid of the pump has a rubber seal underneath, and if the seal cracks or dries out, or if the lid is not seated correctly, then air leaks in which strains the pump's motor.


    The pump should only run for up to 8–12 hours per day, unless temporarily increasing the filtration (like after the Opening, or if the pool turns green).  Running the pump non-stop for extended periods of time when your water is clear adds unnecessary wear.


    Location of the pump matters.  Pumps should be installed at an equal elevation to the pool's water level.  Pumps are designed to “push” water more easily than they can “pull” it. If the pump sits too high above the pool water, it has to work harder to get started, which makes priming difficult and puts strain on the motor and seals.  Your pump shouldn’t sit directly on the ground.  A sturdy pad keeps it out of wet surfaces caused by leaks, rain, or puddling, which prevents rust, electrical issues, and premature wear.

  • Most vinyl liners last about 7–10 years, but with good care, many can last 12–15 years or even longer with the key factors being proper water chemistry, protection from damage, and proper seasonal maintenance.


    Prolonged periods of time with unbalanced water is the #1 reason liners fail early. Low pH can make the vinyl brittle, high calcium or alkalinity can cause scaling and stains, while consistently high chlorine can bleach and weaken a liner over time. Regular testing and adjustments are an essential part of extending your liners lifespan.

    Maintaining a consistent water level supports the liners fit to the shape of your pool. If levels drop too low the liner can shift, wrinkle, or even shrink when exposed to sunlight.


    Never use sharp objects when cleaning or enjoying the pool.  Being mindful of toys, tools, and pets that could puncture the liner will prevent unwanted damage.  Small tears can spread quickly and become difficult to patch.

    Protecting the liner from the sun is also another important tip.  UV rays slowly fade and weaken vinyl over time. Keeping the pool covered when it’s not in use, with a solar cover or electric cover, helps protect it from this type of sun damage.  However, be mindful with your electric covers.  When a pool is covered, the gases from chlorine and other chemicals can build up and get trapped right at the water’s surface. Over time, this can cause fading, bulging, and premature wear on the liner. The solution is simple: let the pool “breathe” by uncovering it regularly (for an hour or two - once a day - or minimally a few times per week), especially after adding chlorine or shock treatments.

    Add something about when it’s time to change the liner.

  • If your liner is severely faded, dry and brittle, has wrinkles, or is leaking it could be time for a replacement.

    Fading isn’t a problem on its own, but often means the vinyl is starting to lose its elasticity and flexibility.  If the liner feels stiff, starts pulling away from the walls, or develops cracks near the waterline and around faceplates, that’s a clear sign it’s reaching the end of its life.

    Leaks are another obvious reason.  Liners can be patched when small punctures are discovered, but eventually the patches will fail and need to be repaired again.  If you are constantly losing water, or spot a tear, your liner should be replaced.

    In general, if your liner is over ten years old and showing any of these signs, it’s smart to start planning for the liner to be changed.

  • When Mountain Pools builds your pool we prepare and submit the construction permit application to your town which allows construction to start. If a variance is required, which is unusual, we will also manage that process. After the pool is finished and a permanent safety barrier is installed you call the town to request the final inspection to close out the construction permit and get certificate of occupancy (CofO).

  • Towns have rules limiting what you can and can’t do on your property based on the zoning. For instance, your house may be in the R3 zone, and for the R3 zone all structures must be at least 25’ away from the property boundary. If we’re proposing to build your pool only 10’ from the property boundary we need to request a variance to do so. We go to the town’s zoning board of appeals and explain why we want an exception (or variance) to do something that is normally not allowed by the zoning rules. If the board grants our variance we have permission to proceed as planned, if they deny the variance application we come up with another plan.

  • C of O stands for Certificate of Occupancy. The town’s building department issues a C of O after inspecting a finished construction that has an open building permit to certify that the construction has complied with the town’s zoning and building codes. The owner requests the C of O for their pool once the fence is installed around the pool. If a C of O is not secured for a project it creates problems when you try to sell your home.

  • In our area it’s possible to encounter shelf rock while excavating for a pool. Shelf rock is the term used to describe a large slab of rock that is not removable using an excavator’s bucket. Sometimes there are surface indications that we may encounter shelf rock while excavating, but we only know for sure by actually digging. If we encounter shelf rock we can amend the pool’s depth, but the typical solution is to bring in additional equipment at additional cost to break the rock apart to achieve the design depth.

  • There are three filter types- sand, cartridge, and DE. The filter types refer to the filter media, the things inside the filter that sperate dirt from the water. Sand filters are filled with jagged-edged sand particles of a uniform size that catch dirt in the jagged spaces between the sand particles. Cartridge filters use manufactured pleated paper filters to do this. DE filters use diametaceous earth, which are jagged plankton fossils contained by a screen, to do the same thing. Because sand filters are easy to backwash, simpler (fewer failure points, easy to keep in good order), and are the least expensive to operate Mountain Pools uses sand filters as the default filter choice for all new construction.