FAQ

  • The water should be one-half to two -thirds of the way up the skimmer inlet. If the water is too low, your pump will pull air through the skimmer which stresses the pump. If the water is too high, the skimmer will not capture surface debris as intended.

  • The skimmer collects surface debris in its basket strainer. If the basket is full it stresses the pump and makes it difficult to capture more debris. 

  • Yes. Pointing return jets downwards towards the floor on a 45 degree angle and to the side so that the pool has a unidirectional circular floor has many benefits.

    It improves circulation, improves skimmer effectiveness, improves chemical mixing, increases the pool filter’s ability to capture dirt, reduces evaporation, and reduces heat loss.

  • A filter should be backwashed when its pressure increases 8 PSI vs. its clean pressure reading.

    Backwashing should also be done when pressure at the returns is weak, suction at the skimmer is weak, or dirt is blowing back into the pool through the returns.

  • Filters remove dirt from the water. Over time their pores get clogged with this dirt, which increases water pressure and reduces water flow. The less water flows through the filter, the less of the pool water gets filtered every day and the harder the pump has to work. By reversing the flow of water through the filter out to waste, or backwashing, we remove the trapped dirt and clean the filter, restoring original flow rates and reducing the filter pressure.

  • CYA is the abbreviation for cyanuric acid, commonly referred to as conditioner or stabilizer. CYA protects chlorine from being destroyed when exposed to the sun’s UV rays. If too much CYA builds up over time, as often happens in spas, CYA will actually prevent the chlorine from working effectively.

MaintAin

  • Residential pools require weekly care to remain swimmably clean. This includes clearing baskets, backwashing the filter, vacumming, brushing, and maintaining the chemistry. 

  • Free chlorine is chlorine that’s available to kill bacteria and break down dirt. Without free chlorine there will be nothing to destroy new contaminates. 

    Combined chlorine is chlorine that has already reacted with contaminates like sweat or ammonia. This also known as chloramines, which are actually the cause of the typical pool chlorine smell. Truly clean pools don’t smell like chlorine.

    Total chlorine is the sum of free and combined chlorine. This measurement help determine whether your pool should be shocked. Shocking a pool releases combined chlorine as free chlorine again.

  • Shocking is the term for temporarily spiking a pool’s chlorine concentration from 1-3ppm to 10 - 20ppm.

    We shock pools that are cloudy, green, have no free chlorine, or have high combined chlorine readings.

  • Enzymes are catalysts that facilitate chemical reactions without being consumed in the reaction.

    Enzymes used to treat pools and spas are formulated to attack organic waste like body oil, lotions, sunscreen, and cosmetics that cause foaming and feed bacteria.

    Chlorine isn’t efficient at destroying these wastes, so introducing enzymes leaves the chlorine available to do what it does best- attacking bacteria and algae.

    Enzymes used in combination with chlorine results in a healthier, cleaner pool, that consumes less chlorine.

  • To vacuum a pool our techs need power at the pad, proper water level in the pool, a working pump, bottom visibility and a safe work environment.

    We vacuum using a skim-vac through your system. This means that if you have no power, your suction line is clogged, your pump isn’t working, or the water level is low we won’t be able to vacuum.

    If your pool is so cloudy or green that we can’t see the bottom, it often makes sense to allow more time for chemical treatment and filtration to clear the water so that when we vacuum we can actually do a good job.

    Finally, if we get caught in a thunderstorm we stop work for safety’s sake.

    If we know there’s an ongoing issue preventing us from vacuuming the pool using your system, we’ll bring an external pump at an additional charge. 

Fix

  • Schedule your pool opening such that it’ll be vacuumed twice before you want to go swimming.

    If your pool needs equipment repairs or heavy cleaning at start-up, schedule your opening for April 1.

  • When you know you’re done swimming for the season.

    Heaters extend the swimming season into October, but to avoid the risk of a hard freeze, schedule your pool closing before the end of October.

  • Liners typically last 10-20 years.

    The liner’s purpose is to hold water in the pool. Liners that are punctured can be patched. Liners that are brittle, faded and cracked and leaking need to be replaced.

    If your liner is brittle, faded, and cracked, but not leaking, it’s time to start planning to replace it.

    Mountain Pools is expert at liner replacements. If this is something your considering, reach out, and we can help guide you.

  • The primary determinant of liner longevity is water chemistry quality.

    Regular water testing and chemical dosing to maintain the water in the desired chemical ranges is essential to maximizing your liners useful life.

  • The easiest ways to prolong your pump’s life are to maintain a proper water level and clear the baskets.

    If the water is too low, the pump sucks air instead of water. Air does a poor job of lubricating and cooling the pump’s friction fittings. The fastest way to destroy a pump is by running it dry.

    Clear the pump and skimmer basket(s) at least weekly.  When the baskets are clogged with debris, the pump works harder, shortening its life.  Cleaning these baskets is an easy way to prolong pump life.

  • A single-speed pump is the classic version and is only either on or off. When on, it runs at full speed . When paired with an analog timer these pumps are easy to set to run for 8-12hrs per day. Single speed pumps are reliable and simple which is why Mountain Pools includes them by default in our new pool packages.

    A variable-speed pump is a newer design that can adjust the speed at which the pump runs. These pumps’ speeds are programmed for 3+ intervals throughout the day. So for part of the day they may run very slowly and efficiently and for part of the day at full power. When programmed correctly these pumps promise greater electrical efficiency. However, they are often programmed incorrectly, which is why we do not recommend them.

  • ‍Most heater issues come from a few common causes.

    To check whether your heater is working hold your hand in front of a return jet. If you feel hot water coming out your heater is working.

    If not, make sure your pump is running and your filter and baskets are clean.  Heaters won’t fire if the water flow isn’t sufficient.

    Next check the heater is on, the heater breaker is on, and the heater thermostat is set to a higher temperature than the pool’s water temperature.


    If you have a gas heater, confirm that your gas valve is open, and your propane tank has fuel. 

    Keep in mind, propane heaters heat water quickly, while heat pumps work more gradually, especially when air temps are lower.  If your pool is warming slowly, the system may still be working as intended.

    These 2 calculators help determine the length of time required to heat your pool to a desired temperature:

    Natural Gas/ Propane www.hayward.com/tools/heat-gas-calculator

    Electric Heatpump www.hayward.com/tools/heat-chill-calculator

    If this guide hasn’t helped resolved your heater issue, contact Mountain Pools to schedule a service visit!

  • A sand filter doesn’t require a lot of attention, but a little goes a long way. 

    The most important thing is to backwash the filter when the pressure rises 8PSI above the baseline clean pressure reading. Clean pressure readings are typically 16 PSI.

    Every 5–7 years, the sand itself is replaced. The sand will get clogged, round off, and generally lose its effectiveness at trapping dirt.

    If you notice cloudy water that doesn’t clear after backwashing, or sand or dirty water blowing through returns, reach out to Mountain Pools to arrange a service visit.

build

  • When Mountain Pools builds your pool we prepare and submit the construction permit application to your town which allows construction to start.

    If a variance is required, which is unusual, we also manage that process.

    After the pool is built and a permanent fence installed you call the town to request the final inspection to get certificate of occupancy (CofO).

  • Towns have zoning rules limiting what you can do on your property.

    For instance, your house may be in the R3 zone in which all structures must be at least 25’ away from the property boundary.

    If we’re planning to build a pool 10’ from the property boundary we need to request a variance to do so.

    We go to the town’s zoning board of appeals and explain why we want an exception (or variance) to do something not allowed by the zoning rules.

    If the board grants our variance we have permission to proceed as planned, if not we come up with another plan.

  • C of O stands for Certificate of Occupancy. The town’s building department issues a C of O after certifying that the project complies with the town’s zoning and building codes.

    The owner requests the C of O for their pool once the pool fence is installed.

    Securing a C of O is recommended as it’s the right way to do things and it avoids problems when homeowners decide to sell their home.

  • Decking is what you walk atop around the pool. People sometimes refer to this as the pool’s patio.

    Decking is typically made of stone, pavers, brick or concrete. Some people will install wooden decks, but this has a number of disadvantages and is not recommended.

    The decking immediately touching or overhanging the pool wall is often referred to as coping.

    We recommend that the coping is mortared to a concrete sub-base for safety.

  • We recommend pavers and manufactured stone for their durability, value, and looks. Mountain Pools installs these decking types.

  • In our area it’s possible to encounter shallow shelf rock while excavating for a pool.

    Shelf rock is a large solid slab of rock not removable using an excavator’s bucket.

    Sometimes there are surface indications of shelf rock, but we only know for sure by actually digging.

    If we encounter shelf rock we bring in additional equipment at additional cost to break the rock .

  • There are three filter types- sand, cartridge, and DE. The filter types refer to the filter media, the material inside the filter that separates dirt from the water.

    Sand filters are filled with jagged sand of a uniform size to catch dirt in the spaces between the sand particles. Cartridge filters use manufactured pleated paper filters. DE filters use diatomaceous earth, which are jagged plankton fossils contained by a screen.

    Because sand filters are easy to backwash, simple, easy to maintain, and are the least expensive to operate Mountain Pools specs sand filters by default for new construction.

  • A salt chlorine generator uses electrolysis to make chlorine from salt water.

    Pools with a salt chlorine generator don’t require regular external chlorine treatment to maintain the desired 1-3ppm of free chlorine.

  • An electric heat pump heater is the best choice in most situations, which is why Mountain Pools specs them by default for new construction.

    Heat pumps use electricity only to transfer heat from the outside air to the water, which makes them very efficient. Operating costs are ~25% of those for a propane unit. People with heat pumps don’t give much thought to when they run their heaters, as the operating costs as negligible.

    Propane heaters have high operating costs and can burn through a 100 gallon propane tank in a weekend. People with propane heaters often obsess about when they run their units.

  • An electric safety cover advantages and disadvantages. Whether it makes sense depends on your situation. Mountain Pools recommends them for people with small children and for those who use their property for short-term rentals.

    The benefits are that they seal the pool from outside world improving safety. This seal also keeps all dirt out when they’re closed. Finally, their ease of use is great- push-button operation powered by an electric motor.

    The downsides are that they incur significant up-front cost, eventually require repair, and require venting & cover pumping.

    We’re always happy to discuss electric safety covers with you in greater detail. Feel free to reach out!

  • We generally discourage customers from installing control systems more complicated than an analog timer switch. Most people want their pools to work predictably and reliably, which is what an analog timer switch does. 

    Complicated control systems always add cost, complexity, failure points, and increase incidents of user error, while providing limited benefits.

    We can always install digital control systems that are remote controlled and that will run complex operating schedules, but we generally recommend customers to start simple, see how it goes, and add complexity only as needed.